1994 Washington Post Water Bagels and Bialys Recipes

WATER BAGELS (NEW YORK-STYLE BAGELS)

(10 bagels)
New York bagel aficionados always maintain that the secret to New York bagels is the New York water. However, even minus the Hudson River, these bagels are a pretty close runner-up to what many Americans consider the definitive model.

1 1/2 cups slightly warm water
3 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast, or 1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 tablespoon oil
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon malt syrup (brown sugar can be substituted)
2 3/8 teaspoons salt
4 1/2 to 5 1/2 cups bread flour, preferably unbleached
Cornmeal for sprinkling baking sheet
Sesame seeds, poppy seeds, dry garlic granules, onion flakes, caraway seeds or coarse salt for topping the bagels (garnishes optional)

To prepare by hand or electric mixer, whisk together the water, yeast, oil, sugar, 2 teaspoons of the malt syrup and 1 3/8 teaspoons of the salt, stirring to dissolve the yeast, sugar and salt, and thoroughly blend everything before adding the flour.

Stir in most of the flour until the dough can no longer be stirred. If using an electric mixer, switch to a dough hook. If kneading by hand, turn out onto a lightly floured board. Knead the dough, adding more flour as necessary, for 8 to 10 minutes by hand, or 8 minutes by machine. Dough will be stiff.

Let the dough rest on a board about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, line two large baking sheets with baking parchment and sprinkle generously with cornmeal.

Fill a large soup pot or Dutch oven three-quarters full with water. To this add the remaining 1 tablespoon of malt syrup and remaining 1 teaspoon salt.

Bring water to a boil. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Divide dough into 10 pieces. Form into strips about 8 to 10 inches long, and then form these into bagel rings and place on prepared parchment-covered, cornmeal-dusted baking sheet. Let rest 15 to 20 minutes. Bagels should have a "half proof," meaning they should rise halfway or appear puffed.

Reduce water to a simmer and add bagels a few at a time. Allow them to come to surface and simmer 30 seconds. Turn over and cook other side about 45 seconds more (total of 1 1/2 minutes). Place back on cornmeal-lined sheet.

Leave dough plain or use one of the toppings listed.

Place in oven, reduce heat to 425 degrees and bake until done, about 15 to 20 minutes. If you have a baking stone, move the bagels off the cookie sheet and onto the stone for the final 2 minutes of baking.

Per bagel without optional garnish: 281 calories, 9 gm protein, 54 gm carbohydrates, 3 gm fat, trace saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 525 mg sodium


PUMPERNICKEL BAGELS

(10 bagels)
Chewy and dark, this bagel shines with nothing on it. You don't have to boil these, but you can. Some bakeries simply glaze the bagels with egg white, then add on the toppings and bake as rolls. Outstanding.

1 1/2 cups slightly warm water
1 tablespoon dry onion flakes or minced onion
4 teaspoons active dry yeast, or 2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
5 tablespoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons malt syrup (optional)
1 teaspoon baker's caramel, or more, to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground caraway seeds, or 1 teaspoon whole caraway seeds
2 3/4 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons cornmeal plus extra for sprinkling baking sheet
1/2 cup dark or coarse rye flour
3 1/2 to 4 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour
1 cup finely diced, lightly sauteed onions, or rehydrated dry onion flakes (optional garnish)
Caraway seeds, coarse sea salt or poppy seeds (optional garnishes)

To prepare by hand or electric mixer, whisk together the water, onion flakes, yeast, 3 tablespoons of the brown sugar, the malt syrup, baker's caramel, caraway seeds, 1 3/4 teaspoons of the salt and 2 tablespoons cornmeal, stirring to dissolve the yeast, sugar and salt, and thoroughly blend everything before adding the flour.

Stir in the rye flour and most of bread flour until the dough can no longer be stirred. If using an electric mixer, switch to a dough hook. If kneading by hand turn out onto a lightly floured board. Knead the dough, adding more flour as necessary, for 8 to 10 minutes by hand, or 8 minutes by machine. Dough will be stiff.

Let dough rest on a board about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, line two large baking sheets with baking parchment and sprinkle generously with cornmeal.

Fill a large soup pot or Dutch oven three-quarters full with water. To this add the remaining 2 tablespoons of brown sugar and remaining 1 teaspoon salt.

Bring water to a boil. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Divide dough into 10 pieces. Form into strips 8 to 10 inches long, and then form these into bagel rings and place on prepared baking sheet. Let rest 15 to 20 minutes. Bagels should have a half proof, meaning they should rise halfway or appear puffed.

Reduce water to a simmer and add bagels a few at a time. Allow them to come to surface and simmer 30 seconds. Turn over and cook other side about 30 seconds more (total 1 minute). Place on the cornmeal-sprinkled baking sheet.

Sprinkle on optional garnishes.

Place in oven and bake until done, about 18 to 22 minutes. If you have a baking stone, move the bagels off the cookie sheet and onto the stone for the final 2 minutes of baking.

Per bagel without optional garnish: 263 calories, 8 gm protein, 54 gm carbohydrates, 1 gm fat, trace saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 591 mg sodium


CINNAMON RAISIN WHOLE-WHEAT BAGELS

(10 bagels)
If you are using a bread machine to mix this dough, do not add the raisins until the machine is in the middle of the kneading cycle.

1 1/2 cups slightly warm water
4 teaspoons active dry yeast, or 2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
2 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons light brown sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 cup whole-wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
3 to 4 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour
1 cup raisins, plumped in hot water about 10 minutes (or use raisins and currants mixed)
1 egg white, beaten

To prepare by hand or electric mixer, whisk together the water, yeast, oil, honey, 1/4 cup of the sugar, 1 1/4 teaspoons of the salt, and the cinnamon, stirring to dissolve the yeast, sugar and salt, and thoroughly blend everything before adding the flour.

Stir in the whole-wheat flour and most of the bread flour until the dough can no longer be stirred. If using an electric mixer, switch to a dough hook. If kneading by hand, turn out onto a lightly floured board. Knead the dough, adding more flour as necessary, for 8 to 10 minutes by hand or 8 minutes by machine. Add the raisins about halfway through the kneading (you can also press the raisins into the dough when you are done kneading). Dough will be stiff.

Let dough rest on a board about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, line two large baking sheets with baking parchment.

Fill a large soup pot or Dutch oven three-quarters full with water. To this add the remaining 2 tablespoons of brown sugar and remaining 1 teaspoon salt.

Bring water to a boil. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Divide dough into 10 pieces. Form into strips 8 to 10 inches long, and then form these into bagel rings and place on a prepared cookie sheet. Let rest 15 to 20 minutes. Bagels should have a half proof, meaning they should rise halfway or appear puffed.

Reduce water to a simmer and add bagels a few at a time. Allow them to come to surface and simmer 30 seconds. Turn over and cook other side about 1 minute more (total 1 1/2 minutes). Remove to a baking sheet and let dry, then brush with beaten egg white.

Place in oven, reduce heat to 425 degrees and bake until done, about 18 to 22 minutes. If you have a baking stone, move the bagels off the cookie sheet and onto the stone for the final 2 minutes of baking.

Per bagel: 357 calories, 9 gm protein, 72 gm carbohydrates, 4 gm fat, 1 gm saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 486 mg sodium


ONION BIALY

(Makes 15 bialys)
Inspired by, and adapted from, "Secrets of a Jewish Baker," by George Greenstein (see box below left).

FOR THE BIALY DOUGH:
1 1/2 cups warm water
4 teaspoons active dry yeast, or 2 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
5 teaspoons sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
5 to 5 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour
Cornmeal for the baking sheet
FOR THE TOPPING:
1/2 cup dehydrated minced onions
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 egg beaten in 1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
3 tablespoons poppy seeds

For the dough: To prepare by hand or electric mixer, whisk together the water, yeast, sugar and salt, stirring to dissolve and thoroughly blend everything before adding the flour.

Stir in most of the flour until dough can no longer be stirred. If using an electric mixer, switch to a dough hook. If kneading by hand, turn out onto a lightly floured board. Knead dough, adding flour as necessary, 8 to 10 minutes by hand, or 8 minutes by machine (it will be a very stiff).

Cover dough with a tea towel and let rise for 30 minutes.

Deflate dough. Divide into three sections, then divide each section into four to six portions and allow to rest 10 minutes. Roll each section into an oval 3 to 4 inches long. If dough gets too springy, move on to another section. Stretch each oval slightly to make a 4-to-5-inch piece. Make an indentation in the center of each. Cover with a floured tea towel and allow to rise 30 to 40 minutes.

Prepare topping by rehydrating the dehydrated onions in hot water; soak them for 5 minutes. Drain, toss with oil. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Line baking sheets with parchment paper and sprinkle with cornmeal. Place dough ovals on sheets. Glaze outer edges with egg wash. Spoon onion topping into center and a little over top surface. Sprinkle on a little coarse salt and poppy seeds.

Bake until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. If you have a baking stone, move the bagels off the cookie sheet and onto the stone for the final 2 minutes of baking.

Eat immediately or freeze. Thicker bialys will rise and bake higher, and can be split for sandwiches.

Per bialy with topping: 199 calories, 6 gm protein, 35 gm carbohydrates, 3 gm fat, trace saturated fat, 0 g cholesterol, 428 mg sodium